Garment sewing – Artquiltmaker Blog

YM PJ Pants

At Sew Day the other week, I spent the time helping the YM start some PJ Pants. I know you are ROTFL when you think of me and garment sewing. Have no fear, I was under complete supervision.

I was thrilled, and kind of surprised, that the YM was willing to go to Sew Day with me.

He is in town working during the week, but comes over on the weekends. He wants to learn to make clothes better, especially costumes for events like Sakura-Con. I am not a great garment maker, but I thought I could handle this pattern, if Mary was there to answer questions. SIL #2 was also available for consultation. Sew Day was a great opportunity to work with him.

Mary C had told me that PJ pants were a good starting project. I couldn’t get the pattern she suggested, but I got one that was marked as ‘Easy to Sew’.

When she saw it, she was pleased. She told me that the pattern she has is really old and that this one would do fine. WHEW! There are three pattern pieces total. As a bonus, the pants have pockets.

Mary started out helping the YM, but I took over partway through as she was doing some handwork. I didn’t think it was fair to make her keep getting up.

There was a table set up near the kitchen and Mary suggested he work there. It was actually perfect, because it gave him plenty of room to work. As a bonus, I could get steps in walking back and forth.

He made a pattern with tracing paper first and did all the prep. He was surprised at how long the prep takes. I was reminded of my complaints about cutting out bags. Like mother like son, I guess.

He eventually got to sewing. My promise that the prep was worth it all came true then as the pants went together very quickly.

I brought my travel sewing machine with us. I was afraid he wouldn’t get to sewing and it would have been a waste, but he did get to the sewing part.

He needs practice, because some of his seam lines wandered a bit, but the more he sewed, the better he got.

He almost got the fabric to look like pants by the end of Sew Day. You can see in the photo that the outer seem is just clipped. They do look like pants, though.

He sewed the outer seam and zigzagged all the seams the next day. We only have to do the elastic in the waist and hem the bottom and he will have pants.

I suggested that he make a few pair to get into the groove. I explained to him how I like to make a bag pattern a few times to get the feel of it. I don’t know if he will do it, but he didn’t dismiss the idea out of hand.

Finished: Westchester Top

I finally finished the Westchester Top. Really Mary C. finished it for me. I went to her house with the full intention of having her tell me what to do then doing it. She was able to finish most of it very quickly.

One problem I had is that I couldn’t find the directions. I think I must have made a folder for the project and left it somewhere (or hidden it) in my workroom. I’d like to find it and see if the directions are included in the hard copy pattern or if the directions are in the video course only.

I knew the course was in my account, but on my phone, I could only see the hack parts of the course. Fortunately, Mary knew what to do and just serged the whole top, the put the neck and armbands on. She top stitched some of it and I top stitched the rest at home.

I think the top came out pretty well. I have a pattern that fits. I would make the neckline higher if I made this again.

This is a free pattern from Crafty Gemini. You do have to print and tape together the pattern pieces. I bought the hard copy pattern so I wouldn’t have to do that (laziness and printer ink).

Finished: Duck Bone Apron

Duck Bones Apron - back — Duck Bones Apron – back

I finished another Flapper apron over the weekend. I call this the Duck Bones apron because one side has rubber duckies and the other bones. This will be for the YM’s partner. She is on a pathology course and really liked it when I included the bones fabric in a bag I made for her for Christmas.

The bone fabric is a favorite of various recipients. I have an alert on a shop site so whenever it comes in I buy 3 yards and decide what to make. I have enough left to make more pillowcases, which is probably a good idea for my SIL. Who uses only two pillowcases?

Finished: Cactus Flower Flapper Apron

I have made several of these over the past few years and still like the way they turn out. The last one I made was for my mom, I think.

I made two of these at a time. The second one is still in progress. No, it isn’t Christmas or a birthday, but I had them on my mind, so I decided to make them.

I have been adjusting the neck hole a little, but left it the original size this time. I don’t remember why I adjusted it originally. I think the fabric looks really nice in apron form.

Yes, I used some of my precious Philip Jacobs fabric, but why not? It isn’t like there is a shortage at my house.

This is the pattern you can use with a yard of fabric. The pattern is called Flapper Apron from the Decades of Style pattern company. I bought it in 2018 when I was out shopping with Amanda. The clever part of this pattern is that you cut the pattern out on the bias. The biggest attraction is that you only *need* one yard of fabric to make it. I usually make the apron reversible, which takes 2 yards. As mentioned before, I like to give myself a little breathing room with 1.25 yards on each side. Still, the pattern is designed for one yard of fabric.

Dresses Again

In 2015, I was in the thick of preparing myself for DH’s organization’s Grand Parlor, where he would be installed as a Grand officer. In that post, I talked about the Marbella dress pattern and getting the dresses made.

I know some of you followed our adventures as we traveled around the state as DH moved through the offices of the organization. One thing i did not do was post about the other dress style that I had made. I went searching for photos of the dresses yesterday and was shocked that I had never posted any.

McCall's Dress Pattern — McCall’s Dress Pattern

The pattern is McCall’s M6958. I have no idea if it is still available or still available under that number when you read this. As i write this in 2020, it is available.

I bought the pattern, because I thought I would be making the dresses and I needed something easy and flattering. As it turned out, I found a dressmaker and didn’t have to make any of the dresses.

The bad part of this pattern is that it has no pockets. I made the Little Cell Phone Wallet pattern** by Valorie Wells so I would have a pocket for cell phone and hotel room key. I thought the cell phone wallet would make up for the lack of pockets.

The good part of the dress pattern is that it has a flat front, which is pretty flattering. Most of the ones I had made had the cap sleeves.

Hem of McCall's Dress — Hem of McCall’s Dress

To fill out this post, I looked through all the photos I have of the last 8 years of Native Sons events. I found one picture of me in one of the dresses. You can see that I routinely wear it with leggings.

I wear the dresses often. Also, Grand Parlor is coming around again and I’ll probably bring 1-2 along to wear. I think they all need a good press and starch/Mary Ellen’s Best Press**. I might as well do it myself since the dry cleaner is closed.

**I use affiliate links and may be paid for your purchase of an item when you click on an item link in my post. There is no additional cost to you for clicking or purchasing items I recommend. I appreciate your clicks and purchases as it helps support this blog.

Arty Flapper Apron Finished!

I finished the Flapper Apron for my mom. This is the project I started at Sew Day with Gerre and then worked on at the most recent BAM Sew Day.

I spent a few hours on Sunday finishing it up. Now I can show it at the BAM meeting in a few weeks and give it to my mom after she returns from Portland.

This is a pattern you can use with a yard of fabric. You cut the pattern out on the bias. The biggest attraction is that you only *need* one yard of fabric to make it. I usually make the apron reversible, which takes 2 yards. I like to give myself a little breathing room with 1.25 yards on each side. Still, the pattern is designed for one yard of fabric.

Paint Tube Flapper Apron - reverse side — Paint Tube Flapper Apron – reverse side

The pattern directions say nothing about directional fabric. When I made my youngest SIL’s apron the fabric was directional. I decided not to pay attention to the fabric motif and just made the apron. The motif is at an angle, but SIL didn’t complain. On my mom’s version, I wanted the paint tubes to go up and down. Gerre helped me look at the different options for cutting it out. I was concerned about the bias, but since this is an apron, I decided not to care too much.

I did notice when I was finishing it that the edges are all, now, on the bias. For an apron, who cares? For other types of garments, I wouldn’t make this choice. Also, I top stitched all around the edge, so the bias shouldn’t be an issue.

Read about this pattern on the first post I wrote about it. Long term readers will know that I have made several of these aprons. You can see all the aprons I have made, including several from this pattern, using the tag.

Another Flapper Apron

The other day I went and sewed with Gerre. A number of small projects and small elements on larger projects, have been bugging me. I brought a number of those things with me and made good progress.

One project was the Flapper Apron I promised to make for my mom. This is a real garment sewing project, so I had to lay out the tissue and prepare to cut.

One of the things I like about this pattern is that you can lay the fabric out, folded on the bias, lay the pattern pieces out and cut them all from 1 yard of fabric. If you want a reversible apron, you need two yards. Still that is a lot of bang for your fabric buck.

Gerre and I tried a lot of different things to get the paint tubes on the fabric to line up straight on the fabric. We couldn’t figure it out. We decided that since it was an apron, it would probably be ok to not cut it on the bias. If have more fabric if I need to remake it. I am doing it this way so the motifs are oriented properly.

Sadly, there was no information on the pattern focusing directional fabric. The directions are complete, but brief.

Flapper Apron for Mom-preparing to cut with challenges

Folding the fabric lengthwise parallel with the selvedge posed some challenges. One challenge is that the whole piece is on the straight of the grain. I figured that, since it is an apron, it will probably be fine. I did put the tie on the bias to enhance tying. The motifs will not be straight, but I think that will be fine.

The larger problem is that the folded fabric is not wide enough for the whole pattern. I plan to add some small pieces on, matching as best I can.

I suppose nothing is simple.

My Flapper Apron – Finished

Every time I type ‘apron’ it comes out as aprong. I am not sure why, but it may mean that I need to stop making aprons.

Flapper apron - Chrysanthemum side — Flapper apron – Chrysanthemum side

Flapper apron - Butterfly side — Flapper apron – Butterfly side

I finally finished my Flapper apron. I have been using the Church Ladies apron I made awhile ago, though it is not perfect. I don’t like the interfacing in the handles, because it makes them hard to tie. I also don’t like the construction.

I made a Flapper apron for myself awhile ago. The neckline was too long and gaped, so I didn’t like it for myself. It was the one I put in the Fair last year and was well sewn. It couldn’t compete against the tailored blazer in the same category (ERGH!!!), but I still did my best. I never wore it so I sent it off to a friend who admired it. Why not? She loves it.

I adjusted the pattern a little bit on this newest version and the neckline is much better. Not as long, so it doesn’t gape.

Flapper apron - pocket detail — Flapper apron – pocket detail

When I put the pockets on, I was pleased to see that I had matched up one of the Chrysanthemums! I didn’t do it on purpose, but am so pleased. I know the pocket blends into the fabric, so enlarge the photo to see my triumph. 🙂

I haven’t tried it out, but will soon.

Gift Post #7, Apron n.5

Dee's Apron - Christmas 2018 — Dee’s Apron – Christmas 2018

This is the last apron I made from the marathon of cutting I did at Sew Day way back in August.

It took me time to make them all, but repetition is good for projects like this.

SIL #1 is also a Cal fan and a Cal graduate who attends football games regularly. She got the last of my Cal fabric.

Dee's Apron, front - Christmas 2018 — Dee’s Apron, front – Christmas 2018

I learned that the pattern prevents the maker from laying out directional fabric in a certain orientation, but I am ok with the logo being on the diagonal when it is worn.

The front looks good and I hope it won’t show the dirt.

Gift Post #6: Apron n.4

May's Apron - Christmas 2018 — May’s Apron – Christmas 2018

I was pleased to finish the last apron well in advance of Christmas. I didn’t work on any of them in a particular order. I picked one up and went to work finishing it and they were all done in time for Christmas.

May's Apron, reverse - Christmas 2018 — May’s Apron, reverse – Christmas 2018

The flowers on this one are really vibrant and I hope SIL #3 likes it. The reverse side is more her style.

Gift Post #5: Apron n.3

Beth's apron - urban chic — Beth’s apron – urban chic

This is the urban chic + Football crazy version of the Flapper Apron. It is for DH’s youngest sister and I know she will love the Cal side. The urban chic side was hard to choose, so I picked something that I liked and thought had a good chance of being on target. I bought the Marsha Derst fabric in Portland at Pioneer Quilts.

I am not sure which side will be the front. I wear an apron often when I am working in the kitchen and I tend to always wear the same side as the outside.

Beth's apron - Cal side — Beth’s apron – Cal side

I have to say that I was annoyed with this pattern when I first started finishing up this project, but as I finished them up, I started thinking of making two more – one for another friend and another for myself.

One thing about this pattern is challenges with directional fabric. I couldn’t make the fabric line up properly to be read horizontally while it was being worn. It can still be read, so I am not too worried, but it would have been nice. Perhaps the slightly off kilter nature of it will look edgy?

Gift Post #4: Apron n.2

Steph's Apron- front — Steph’s Apron- front

After Thanksgiving, I worked on the group of aprons I wanted to give to my SILs as gifts. Since some of my SILs read here, I couldn’t post until after Christmas. I was also working hard to get to a 100 yards used and each of these aprons is 2 yards.

I fumbled around quite a bit on the first one in this group. I had already finished one a few months ago, which I posted about a few days ago. I finally got the hang of the process, put all the small pieces together and was, eventually, able to zoom along.

Steph's Apron- back — Steph’s Apron- back

The pattern says “finish the neck as desired,” which is about as useful as ‘quilt as desired’ in quilt patterns. I ended up folding the neck by hand and trying to match both sides so the other side wouldn’t peek through. I decided to double top stitch around the neck and the outside to make sure the raw edges, even inside, were sewed down.

I wasn’t sure what fabrics to choose for this apron as I don’t know very well what motifs this SIL likes. Brown and turquoise go together and who doesn’t like butterflies? This is an apron, not a dress, so I am not going to worry too much. I am pleased with how this one came out.

Gift Post #1: Apron n.1

I made this apron back in September. I couldn’t show it because it was a gift for one of my SILs.

I cut 5 aprons out at Sew Day. You know I love to cut things out on Sew Day. I cut it out in August and thought it would be hard to get them sewn for Christmas. Over Labor Day, instead of making the binding and sleeve for the Aqua-Red Sampler, I finished one of the aprons.

SIL #2 Apron - Cal Side — SIL #2 Apron – Cal Side

I was so pleased that I got one done. One down four to go.

I used the Flapper Apron pattern I bought in Portland with Amanda. I like this bias pattern and the fact that a person can make it with one yard of fabric. I make mine with a yard and a quarter, because a yard and a quarter folds into a square and it is always good to have a little extra. 😉

All of them will be two sided. These fabrics don’t necessarily go together, but it is hard to find something that goes with Cal fabric. I decided to make a two sided apron that had two personalities. When wearing it people won’t really see the other side from the front. Of course, other people will see the other fabric on the ties.

SIL #2 Apron - Orange Flower Side — SIL #2 Apron – Orange Flower Side

Flapper Apron

I finally made this Flapper Apron from the Decades of Style pattern company. I purchased it at the Speckled Hen during my shop hop with Amanda in January. Not too shabby, actually. Not that much time has gone by.

Frankly, I am on a mission to use up at least 100 yards net of fabric this year and these aprons take two yards. I have an idea to make a series of them for gifts and this was the first one. It is for me and I used some of my my recent Philip Jacobs fabric purchases.

On the Church Ladies apron that I made before and use almost every day, I interfaced all the parts, so it has a bit of heft (stiffness??) to it. Some parts are too stiff. On this Flapper apron, I only interfaced the pocket, so my phone wouldn’t fall out. I am now concerned that I should have interfaced more of it, perhaps with a lighter interfacing than the ShapeFlex I normally use? It feels a little lightweight to me and not able to protect my clothes from wet splashes and drips. (Yes, this is pretty, but I intend to use my aprons)

Flapper Apron - inside — Flapper Apron – inside

I am kind of sorry I used this great fabric to make the first one, a sort of test, but I firmly believe I should use my good fabric. I also firmly believe there is more fabric, so I suppose I have more fabric I love and can make another apron if this one isn’t up to par.

This is two sided, so I can turn the inside to the outside if I want. I put one pocket on both sides. I only need a pocket for my phone as I don’t put spoons and other kitchen gear in my apron pockets.

The other thing I need to think about is the neck. I thought I didn’t need to adjust the circle for the neck, but I like my aprons to cover almost up to my neck. In this case, the top of the body of the apron falls below that. I think this is a case in which I should have had SIL#2 help me do the fitting.

This apron was not difficult to make and I like that you use 1 yard of fabric (though I bought 1/25 yards and that gave me some room to maneuver) and is cut on the bias. I was able to finish it in a few hours during one day. I did make some changes to the construction based on my recent experience making the Superheroine apron.

Superhero(ine) Apron

The Superheroine apron is done. This, however is a project that has to be shown at guild, then shown at the fair before it can go to its intended recipient.

As mentioned previously, I had all the pieces cut out. I had started to do little bits and bobs, but Friday, I worked on it in earnest and, shockingly, I got it done.

I was sort of surprised to see how much of me was covered when I tried on the apron. My niece is a bigger girl than me, so I think it will fit just fine.

Superheroine apron - laceup front — Superheroine apron – laceup front

The yellow is an addition that I made that is supposed to look like a lace up front. I am not sure it does, but at least I tried.

I had to recut several pieces, because they weren’t right after I decided to add a D ring at the top. I also made the apron lined by cutting out two body pieces and sewing the RST.

I talked to Mary and then looked up how to make D Rings work on the web. I wanted the neck to be adjustable, so the apron is comfortable.

YAY! Another must-do off the list! Now I am tempted to make the Decades of Style Flapper Apron I bought when I was out with Amanda last time. I want to make them for gifts and now would be a good time. I’d also use A LOT of fabric. We’ll see.

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